Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture “Grand Feu” Watch Review

Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture “Grand Feu” Watch Review

Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture “Grand Feu”

If there’s nothing especially new about these watches 

Because they are an easy evolution from the existing Classico Manufacture we reviewed here, adding enamel dials is ample to tickle our interest at MONOCHROME. Once we already described for you after several articles relating to this model, the Classico Manufacture is UN’s best meaning of a “classic”, “dressy” and “understated” watch. It's subtly designed and proportioned, yet it features a couple of distinctive details that confer originality. Adding enamel dials for that SIHH 2018 is really a natural development, both when it comes to design and strategy.

Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture “Grand Feu”

The situation and movement are identical and there's no evolution when compared to previous versions. What we should have before us is definitely an stylishly designed situation with modern proportions. An understated dress watch, go ahead and, however with a virile presence around the wrist because of its 40mm diameter. It isn't what you will become qualified as a real tuxedo watch, but it's far from the sports watch. It may be worn having a suit and tie, but it'll use casual attire too. An exciting-rounder if you want.

The situation seems, initially glance

To become fairly simple fit. Round, having a flat, polished bezel, the situation reveals several nice details after a close look. First would be the lugs, that are harmoniously formed and designed. They aren't straight and also the junction using the situation is delicately recessed. These lugs are short and curved enough to create comfort towards the wrist. Combined with signature screwed plate around the left side (using the watch’s number), this brings a contemporary and dynamic touch without disturbing the elegance and understatement of the watch.

For that SIHH 2018, the Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture receives new dials. In UN’s tradition, they're produced in “grand feu” enamel. This unalterable material has turned into a hallmark from the brand’s production since Donzé Cadran (a properly-known dial maker or cadranier) was acquired and built-into the audience. Increasingly more watches of the trademark receive such dials so we, at MONOCHROME, certainly understand why move.

“Grand Feu” enamel needs a complex production process. At Ulysse Nardin, dials are produced within the most traditional possible way: several layers of enamel powder are applied, baked inside a kiln, polished, flattened and printed by hands. Each and every step, things will go seriously wrong - cracks or bubbles can be displayed in between each layer of enamel - and just probably the most skilled dial makers can accomplish impeccable enamel dials. Although this is true for white-colored enamel, everything is a whole lot worse with black enamel, in which the tiniest imperfection is instantly visible.

For that 2018 collection, two options is going to be available - black or white-colored - both with contrasting elongated Roman numerals and leaf hands. Once more, these dials are classic in fashion and execution, which inserts the general idea of the Classico Manufacture Grand Feu. One regret though: the date window, especially around the black dial version, set against a white-colored background. Again, this is an issue of taste. Some want the date, some don’t.

Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture “Grand Feu”

Powering the Classico Manufacture Grand Feu is UN’s entry-level, in-house movement, the calibre United nations-320. This automatic starting time and date movement offers a relatively good advantages when compared with an externally-sourced engine. It's COSC chronometer-certified in addition to through the Ulysse Nardin Certificate, meaning it meets stringent quality standards for that performance of their mechanism, power reserve, along with other functions. The signature Silicium hairspring and anchor escapement can be found in addition to rapid date correction both forwards and backwards. The 48h power reserve feels safe, thinking about the self-winding capacity.

When it comes to decoration

The movement is enjoyable: circular Geneva stripes, blued screws, engraved rotor, polished bevels around the bridges. It's clean, elegant and precisely performed.

If these new Ulysse Nardin Classico Manufacture Grand Feu don’t revolutionise the model, adding the enamel dials is sufficient to produce a very desirable package. The EUR 1,000 expense implied by these dials, when compared to standard version, feels entirely justified by the good thing about these components and also the glare it provides - particularly the black version, a color rarely observed in this cost segment.